If I can’t fix it myself, I don’t want to keep it. Should I keep playing around with it or throw it at the junkyard? I don’t know what to do. Supposedly its normal, unless it’s not a fuel screw. My pilot fuel screw is different from the picture though, mine has a spring on it and it screeches when I turn it. When I put it back together, the pilot fuel screw wouldn’t make a difference when I would turn it and my motorcycle only runs max 55 miles now and has very little acceleration. I opened up my carbs once again and cleaned them. I got it working really well afterwards, a lot of power, but I heard a clicking sound after about 2 months and I thought maybe it was something I did in the carbs. The first time I cleaned out my carbs I didn’t know I would get them out of tune.
I did not change the pilot jet.Īny advice on getting this carb tuned in would be appreciated !Īgain, nice work on the videos, real clear information for people to understand. It does run pretty good across the spectrum of adjustment, but better towards the closed side of adjustment. It’s a little over poppy on the decel…( I expect some ) and the fuel mixture screw can be all the way seated and it doesn’t slow down idle. With all the changes, the bike transformed in attitude…great throttle response, and it just sounds mean!… Only thing is, I’d like to get it dialed in nice.
MIKUNI BS34 CARBURETOR DIAPHRAGM FREE
Original tube spark arrestor swapped with free flow Spark arrestor I’ll give some info first.Ģ012 klr650 w/CV40 carb,just made changes from stock: I am currently tuning my carb and would greatly appreciate some guidance.
MIKUNI BS34 CARBURETOR DIAPHRAGM HOW TO
Great site ! I watched the how to about adjusting fuel/air mixture screws. Warmer days and colder nights affects air pressure in the empty space above fuel in tank which expands and contracts drawing in cooler moister air in the evening and overnight through overflow/breather = rust. People park their motorcycles outside, especially in the winter, with untreated bare metal interior, part-empty fuel tank causing the inside surface of the tank to rust. Tiny particles can get through the fuel filters above the petcock (which also needs to be cleaned) or other inline filters (replace).
The most common reason for this condition is rust in the gas tank. It only shows up on the highway because the increased fuel consumption at highway speeds outpaces the fuel flow slowly dripping into the float bowl(s) through dirty filters and empties the bowls before they can refill. If you can park the bike on the shoulder for 10 minutes after it dies (giving fuel time to refill float bowls) and then start up and run fine again (for awhile)… dimes to donuts, that’s your problem. Remove the needle/seat assembly and use a small screwdriver or pick to remove the tiny little filters and clean them.
All things being equal and no other apparent or obvious issues/problems, the most common reason a motorcycle inexplicably “dies” on the highway (and nowhere else) is fuel starvation due to empty float bowls caused by clogged filter screens above float bowl needle/seat intake valve assemblies.
0 kommentar(er)
